Sausage Sophistication

by Bernard Shire
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Olympia Provisions' Elias Cairo brings a fresh perspective to his role as a salumist. Photo courtesy of Olympia Provisions.
 

Elias Cairo is a first-generation Greek-American who makes his living as a salumist. He runs Olympia Provisions, a world-class charcuterie meat processing plant and two restaurants in Portland, Oregon. His processing plant and his restaurants are famous for making and selling charcuterie salami, kielbasa, pork rillette, pate, liver mousse, bratwurst, kasekreiner, ham and capicola, among other artisanal meat products.

But making European-style charcuterie is not all Cairo is famous for. He’s become a celebrity of sorts, not only in Portland, but all over the Internet. Last April, he delivered a “TED Talk” at the Univ. of Portland. These are short, 15-minute presentations about various subjects that are made in front of live audiences and later available to people all over the world online. His talk wasn’t so much focused on his success in the food business, rather the lessons he’s learned on the way about staying grounded, maintaining humility and resisting the allure of entitlement during the journey.

Cairo grew up in Salt Lake City, Utah, and decided early on that he wanted to be in the meat industry. His father did his own meat processing at home. At the age of 17, Cairo was sent off by his father to Switzerland, to become an apprentice in the kitchens of master meat processors there. In St. Gallen, in Northeast Switzerland, he worked with several masters, including the “jaegermeister,” the hunter-master of the local valley. He had a full apprenticeship and remained in Switzerland for five years, learning everything he could about meat processing and especially traditional European processing and curing, before coming back to the United States.

He realized he could apply what he learned in Switzerland in the US and opened a salami plant in Portland, Oregon, where his family had moved. He eventually opened a second plant then merged the plants into a much larger processing facility. First, Cairo opened one restaurant, then a second one. Cairo, his sister Michelle, who was an extremely successful businesswoman in corporate finance and accounting before joining Cairo, and three others all own the business, Olympia Provisions, which has grown from a small processing plant into a large Old-World meat processing plant and two restaurants, all in Portland. And in the words of writers from the New York Times and the New Yorker, Cairo is a “superstar salumist” in the high-end world of charcuterie.

MEAT+POULTRY: Your title is “salumist.” What does that mean?

Cairo: A person who makes high-end charcuterie and sausages.

M+P:
And what is your definition of charcuterie?

Cairo: It’s the branch of cooking devoted to making prepared meat products, like bacon, ham, salami, terrines, pates, ballotines, galantines, and confit, mostly from pork. It was originally intended as a way of preserving meat before there was refrigeration. Today, these meats are prepared for their flavors that are derived from the meat preservation process.

M+P: How did this all get started?

Cairo: At the age of 17, my father sent me off to Europe, to the beautiful Toggenburg Valley in Northeastern Switzerland, to be an apprentice meat processor, to learn to make meat products in the old-style European way. My father came to Utah, to Salt Lake City, because someone told him Utah was a lot like Greece. He did everything at home; he did his own meat processing at home; he made charcuterie. He did everything by hand, the old-fashioned way. That’s the way my family lived. So, I decided early on I wanted to be a meat processor.

M+P: What were some of the highlights of your apprenticeship in Europe?

Cairo:
I worked in the kitchens of meat masters in Canton St. Gallen. I worked with Jaeger Stumpf, who was the jaegermeister, the hunter-master of the valley. He had a wild game processing plant and a restaurant. He taught me how to do processing and curing. I had a full apprenticeship and spent five years there. It was a wonderful experience. And I learned again there what I’d been taught at home by my dad and family all along – handmade meat is better than machine-made meat.

M+P: How did you end up back in the US?

Cairo: As I soon found out, I could do the same thing back home in Oregon as I could do in Switzerland. I got a call one day from my sister Michelle in Portland and she said, “You can’t stay there forever – you need to get a job. All those things in Switzerland – meats and cheeses we have in Oregon too. We have the Willamette Valley with world class wines.” So, I came back and got a position as head chef of a high-end restaurant here in Portland. Then in 2009, I opened what was the first USDA-approved salumeria, making one product: fermented salami. My products won four Good Food awards, based not only on product quality, but also using sustainably sourced materials.

M+P: How did that early success influence your next steps?

Cairo: At the time, I didn’t have a lot of help in my plant. I had no help, I was the sole employee. Then I opened my first restaurant. I got my pork from a small family cut-and-wrap shop in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. But my main interest was still salami. That came from my experiences in Switzerland. I came back here and looked at American salami – it was nothing like over there. In Switzerland, there’s beautiful fatback, surrounded by the mold. It’s a very natural product. When I went to the store here, I looked at the products – synthetic, with milk powder, not the real thing.

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